Christmas Food: Ugly Mash

Someone once told me that the uglier the dish, the better it tastes. I think that person was my mother, and I think she was trying to make me feel better after I cooked something hideous. I was mentally giving myself the same pep talk when I came to the end of cooking this recipe, adapted from Saveur’s Skillet Cooked Potatoes and Cheese. It seemed clear that this was going to be a disaster, but I was pleasantly surprised – this is one ugly mash, but it is savory, hearty, bacon-y, and tangy in all the right spots.

Ugly Mash

2 lbs yukon gold potatoes, very thinly sliced (you can use a knife, don’t need a mandolin)
1 stick butter
3 strips bacon, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp chopped chives
1 cup Gruyere, grated
8 oz Farmer’s cheese
salt to taste

Heat butter in nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook until its fat has become liquid with the butter. Add sliced potatoes to the skillet. Cover the skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally and crushing potatoes into chunks with a wooden spoon, until potatoes are tender (approx. 30 minutes). Add cheeses and garlic to skillet, stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover. Cook, scraping bottom of skillet with a wooden spoon, until cheese is melted and the potatoes are mashed, about 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Sprinkle with chives.